Moto RenzoJetting database

New air filter or exhaust: what changes in the jetting?

Open bellmouths, a performance air filter or a freer exhaust usually make the mixture leaner. Which parts to adjust, in which order, and why nobody can predict the right jet for you.

By Moto Renzo · Last updated 3 November 2026 · 3 min read

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The factory jetting is meant for standard condition, with the original air filter and exhaust. Open up the intake or the exhaust and more air flows through the same jets. The mixture gets leaner, and in most cases the jetting has to go richer.

Why a modification changes the mixture

The jets are sized for a certain amount of air. Open bellmouths instead of an airbox reduce intake resistance. A freer exhaust changes the back pressure. Either way, the engine draws more air. Without the airbox the flow in front of the carburettor changes too, and the engine responds differently. If it pulls weakly at the top after the change, runs hot or shows pale plugs, it is lean.

What usually needs adjusting

PartHow often affectedDirection
main jetalmost alwaysbigger, in steps from the factory size
needle position, then needle jetoftenricher, otherwise everyday riding snatches
idle jet and mixture screwdepends on the changeoften one size bigger if it pops on the overrun
float levelcheck firstset to the factory figure

How much richer depends on the individual bike: bellmouth length, with or without mesh, exhaust, camshaft and engine condition. That is why we don't give blanket sizes here.

Why nobody can give you the right jet

Forums are full of combinations that worked for someone else. As experience they are valuable, as a shopping list they are not. Two modifications that look the same often run differently. The practice reports on our carburettor pages show this. On the PHF 36 a Le Mans III ran far too hot after a conversion to open bellmouths; the jetting was evidently too lean. On the PHF 30 a T3 bored out to 995 cc ran rich with every combination that was tried. The advice in the forum in the end: measure lambda instead of guessing.

How to go about it

  1. Finish the modification and check the basics: no leaks, ignition, valve clearance, float level.
  2. Fit your model's factory jetting, or note down what is fitted. The figures are in the jetting database.
  3. Tune in the right order: main jet, then needle and needle jet, then idle. One change per test ride. More in Tuning a Dell'Orto.
  4. Check by reading the plugs, or better with a lambda reading or on a dyno after bigger changes.
  5. Write down the result with the complete jetting. It helps you next time, and the next owner too.

Road legality

Changes to intake and exhaust usually affect type approval and noise. That has nothing to do with jetting, but it is part of every modification.

Need jets in several sizes?

With the main jet set you put together the sizes around your factory value yourself. It is on your motorcycle's page in the jetting database. Questions welcome.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need bigger jets after fitting an open air filter?

Usually yes, because more air flows through the same jets and the mixture gets leaner. The main jet is almost always affected, and often the needle position and needle jet as well.

Which main jet do I need after the change?

That can't be predicted. It depends on bellmouths, exhaust, camshaft and engine condition. Start at the factory size and work up in steps.

Is changing the main jet enough?

Often not. The main jet only works from about half throttle. Below that, in everyday riding, the needle and needle jet are responsible, and that is where a lean engine snatches first.

How do I know if my engine runs lean after the change?

Typical signs are weak pulling at the top, a hot engine and pale to greyish white plugs. A lambda reading gives you certainty.

Matching parts from our stock

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